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Roads to Roma
The Gypsy Caravan
By Banning Eyre
APRIL 5, 1999:
In 1991 an eight-person juggernaut of fiddlers, singers, accordionists, pipers,
and percussionists emerged from the village of Clejani in Romania and into the
world-music arena. Homegrown as a country wedding, Taraf de Haïdouks --
which translates to "band of brigands" -- brought rock-and-roll attitude to
bear on their own brand of traditional Gypsy music.
The group, who join five other Gypsy ensembles from around the world on "The
Gypsy Caravan: A Celebration of Roma Music and Dance" tour that comes to
Sanders Theatre this weekend, continue in that vein on their new Taraf de
Haïdouks Nonesuch album. Gypsies are sensitive about being stereotyped
as thieves and lowlifes, but the bold "band of brigands" embrace the myth of
the Gypsy bandit by kicking off the album with a track that dramatizes the
boasts of a horse thief. The playing here and throughout this album is strong
coffee, from the breakneck flute turns of "The Peasant's Belt" to the
leather-shoe-on-wood-floor percussion of "The Bear-Leader's Circle Dance."
Elsewhere, Taraf de Haïdouks chronicle the fall of the Soviet-backed
dictator Ceausescu ("Ballad of a Dictator") and sing of romantic yearnings,
bliss, and heartbreak. What links the disparate themes is a sense of defiance
in the face of tragedy -- the thistle-like essence of Gypsy culture, which has
always used beauty as a means of survival.
Baudelaire once called the Gypsies the "prophetic tribe with glowing eyes."
But the proper name for the people known as Gypsies is the Roma. For more than
1000 years the Roma have carried their music and a motherlode of musicianship
on a journey across continents from their original home in Rajasthan in
Northern India. They've been uprooted, jailed, and slaughtered in Europe for
centuries; they have no homeland or political structures; and their language
has nearly disappeared in many enclaves. And yet, Roma music has survived in
many guises: as wedding music in the Balkans, as restaurant entertainment in
Hungary, and, most famously, as masterful flamenco, the national music of
Spain.
For a broader look at contemporary Roma musical groups, try the new The
Gypsy Road: A Migration from India to Spain (Alula), a compilation of
recent recordings that features five of the six groups on the Gypsy Caravan
tour. Kalyi Jag, a mostly vocal group from Hungary, became the first
non-restaurant Roma group to record in Hungary after the end of the Soviet era.
The track here bristles with rural rowdiness and tricky rhythms, but it has a
hook you come away humming, a rarity in this gnarly music. The exuberant
wedding fare of the Yuri Yunakov Ensemble belies a tortured history. Soviet
Communism in countries like Yunakov's native Bulgaria did provide protection
for the Roma, who had been fair game for wholesale killing prior to the Second
World War. But it did little to advance them as a people. Yunakov was the star
saxophonist in Bulgaria's most successful wedding band, Ivo Papasov's, yet that
didn't prevent him from being harassed, fined, and even jailed for playing Roma
songs. No surprise that Yunakov bases his group in New York these days.
Musafir, the most ethnically diverse outfit on The Gypsy Road (and in
the Gypsy Caravan tour), take Roma music back to its Indian roots under the
direction of Rajasthani percussionist Hameed Khan. This young, Paris-based
group bring the music full circle by drawing from many religious and national
traditions along the Romany trail from India to central Europe. Russia's
Kolpakov Trio, in contrast, offer a more genteel take on Roma tradition. Leader
Sacha Kolpakov sings with passion and the sort of melismas you'd expect from a
Gypsy crier. The Russian feeling of his foursquare guitar playing shows the
Gypsy genius for donning the mantle of local culture while remaining
fundamentally Roma.
The Gypsy Road also features guitarist Gerardo Núñez, one
of the most exciting flamenco artists to emerge in recent years. His blistering
track is a good argument in favor of hunting down his recent full-length
Calima (Alula). For an even more in-depth excursion into the Roma
musical tradition, there's L'Épopée Tzigane: Road of the
Gypsies (Network), a two-CD set that sweeps from India though Central Asia,
North Africa, and Europe telling the Gypsy story over the course of 32 tracks
of sensational music, along with pictures and text chronicling the long and
often difficult journey that has molded the music of artists like
Núñez and bands like Taraf de Haïdouks.

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